Tuesday, March 25, 2008

Muses over Manholes

By Murzban F Shroff

The writer walks home, carrying with him his perpetual load. He has left his workplace, his den, from where he dreams of changing the world. The workplace is a nine-by-eleven feet Italian-tiled storeroom peopled by protagonists, offenders, law-breakers, murderers, and victims, all who are locked up in a seventeen-inch computer screen. They will exist in the writer’s head and grow there till set free by a publisher. Or by some kind literary agent who has a soft corner for newcomers.

The writer’s shoes squeak against the pavement. His pace is slow and unhurried. There is a reason for this. Bombay rains are here - warm, frantic, spiritual, making the pavement slippery.

Pitter patter, pitter patter, and the road blushes black. The branches of trees spread out eagerly. Leaves and water greet each other like long-separated cousins. The trees shake off their sullenness. They have been sulking ever since the cabbies refused to abide by emission laws. The trees breathe disbelievingly, first slowly, then rhythmically, all the way down to the roots. Or so the writer imagines and hopes. He also breathes, using mouth and nostrils both.

Cars slow to maneuver through the downpour. There is water filling at the sides of the road, where it slopes, just before the pavement. Car wipers beat maddeningly against the windscreens. They remind the writer of middle-age women on treadmills, trying to work off their calories. Both face resistance. Some wipers screech as they clean the windscreens; some just don’t function; some are conspicuous by their absence - they have been ripped off by urchin boys and traded in for a meal.

The rain drums an incessant beat on the roofs of shops and against their closed metal shutters. Rats - scarier washed than dry - dart for cover. Taxis cruise by restaurants and bars. Big-bellied drunkards lurk outside, pondering over the merits of another drink. They pull at their cigarettes and let out a little gas unnoticed. Silently, they grapple with their libidos and contemplate discreet addresses that would deliver satisfaction. Paan-beediwallas make the last sale of the night.

The pavement glistens like a black polished landscape. The sky above is velvet and watchful. It pours forth its load as though there is a quota to be dispensed. The rainfall is intense, in unrelenting sheets of silver, which makes it difficult to see ahead, beyond a few feet or more. Small brown puddles well up at the side of the road. Motley garbage - a heap of bottle caps, papers, plastic wrappers, vegetable shavings, and fruit peels - is pelted and crushed by the rain. The sins of the city trickle into manholes not yet choked. The writer reaches the end of the road. He sees a crossroad ahead. The crossroad divides the East side from the West. There are more trees on the West side. Plus old stone buildings, new skyscrapers, and a police station for safety.

Safety never did much for the imagination, muses the writer. A city must excite, must provoke and titillate, he tells himself. Life, like writing, must annihilate to create. He is pleased with himself for such deviant wisdom. The traffic lights blink at him. They appear to be mocking him, pulling faces – the way schoolboys do. Behind him a cough starts.

The cough is hollow and heinous. The writer recognizes the sounds of ill health. Life ignored is life at risk. This could pertain to the old woman he has just passed, coughing on the pavement, or it could hold for the prostitute soliciting on the opposite side of the road unaware of the virus that killed.

The cough settles into a deep, hacking rhythm. The writer turns to see the old woman. Her face is a sheet of quiet imbibed pain; her hair is white and inflamed under the streetlight; the rest is all bones and ribs. The writer listens to the monster exploding within her. He recognizes the sound of tuberculosis. Living in Bombay, he has fought millions of tuberculosis germs. He has held a peace kerchief to his mouth in the face of polluting cabs and trucks. And he has sprinted past malodorous urinals and open-air shitting grounds, holding his nostrils and pursing his lips.

The coughing gets hysterical. The woman struggles to rise. For that, she uses a bony arm. Her sari drops and reveals her rib cage, and under that her wild beating lungs and a wilting pouch of breast. There is no bra, nothing to cover her bony chest and her protruding ribs.

Still, life’s lingering shred, muses the writer, as he sees her lift her sari and place it over her shoulder. She does this out of habit, as she might have done in younger years.

For me, nothing, not even a shred of hope, the writer thinks. The publishers don’t even call him by name any more. Dear Author, we regret to inform you – he has read this even before the postman has had time to collect his breath and retreat down the staircase. Earlier, the writer used to memorize the compliments. He used to preserve and breathe in the balms, sweetly, naively, for days. While we must compliment you on a lively sense of observation, we regret your work does not fit our list. Sometimes it specified “fit,” mellowed it by saying at this point in time. Sometimes it encouraged him to submit elsewhere. To different countries, different presses. Most times, he stayed humble in his replies. Thank you, sir, for the time spent. If you could volunteer an insight I’d be grateful.

That’s when they stopped writing to him, snuffed him out like he never existed. After that he just broke. You realize, sir, what you are holding: a 21st century version of Catcher in the Rye.

For three years he wrote, and for three years it kept coming back. Regrets only: they wrote the book on that. It was like there was some sinister pact with the post office. Like even the postmaster knew the book was going nowhere. “Thank you, Mr. Postman,” he was tempted to say. “Thank you for bringing back the manuscript. Print-outs are expensive, you know?”

The last was the unkindest cut of all. He felt like a Caesar betrayed, a Timon spurned, Lear raging in a storm. We are pleased to accept your manuscript and look forward to sharing our best services for success. There was an expensive-looking brochure printed in extraordinary colors. The paper was rich and glossy, achieved at the expense of some poor sacrificial writer. Or should he say “customer,” since all rights were forsaken once that decision was made? Once you paid to get laid, the principle being the same.

Like a persistent tout, the brochure spoke and adhered to his ear. It whispered promises he didn’t want to hear: “Cut out the misery once and for all; cut out this coupon now. The only thing that stands between you and your future is your pride. The greatest enemy of your talent is you. Why worry about the outcome when you have found an outlet?”

He was smart enough to realize the conspiracy of forces working against him. Not just the publishers who had failed to recognize his worth, and agents too busy with known names, referrals, triple deals, but his own characters whom he had nurtured adoringly, patiently, sacrificing meals, sleep, and the comfort of a secure job. He had given them lives beyond ordinary fates, added on traits that would be discussed in classrooms. Pomp and success he had dreamt of for them. Like a true father, he was willing to bequeath all.

Yet, they had let him down. Like adolescent sons, they had betrayed him. They had failed to get themselves a career or a life, let alone immortality. The only thing real were the tears streaming down his cheeks, the rain lashing his face, and the brochure, which he clutched in his hand, creased, because he had read it thrice already.

There was a line in it that had led him to consider the option. “We hope to mature you into one of our finest writers yet.” Of course there’d be a fee. A pre-editorial fee, to begin with.

If there was a past life, it had caught up with him now. If there was an afterlife, it beckoned now. Eventually, everything down the tube, he thought. Because he couldn’t be like Steinbeck and pick grapes from an orchard. He couldn’t serve the earth endlessly, and all who lived on it. He couldn’t do that, because his own orchard (in which his creativity grew) was too big and too wide, and the grapes were always sour – unfailingly.

He lit a cigarette and cupping it pulled till the tip blazed. He watched the water at the side of the road rush toward an open manhole. The lid of the manhole was lying at the side. It was brown and rusted, like a giant cookie, discarded.

The water flowed toward the manhole, carrying the guck with it. The guck fell over the side and disappeared. Truly, thought the writer, what is not seen is not believed. That is as true of sanitation as of writing.

He took three short drags of his cigarette, frantic puffs, before it got wet. The rain hammered against his face. The wind rushed and howled. The rain fluttered like satin drapes on a stormy night. It was putty in the hands of the breeze. He could feel a chill at the back of his neck and on his ears. Slowly, he exhaled smoke over the manhole. It dispersed like a phantom fog. Smoke and water fought each other for prevalence, for supremacy. Smoke lost. It was subdued by the rain. He dropped the cigarette into the manhole. Then he crushed the brochure and flung it in as well. He watched the water swirl over it, gobble it. Instantly he felt a pinch of regret. We hope to mature you into one of our finest writers yet.

A scooter screeched past. It had three occupants, all boys, clinging to each other, and they called joyously to the writer. He waved back sportingly. At least they had the weather to celebrate, the end of an arid spell, he thought. The scooter skidded, regained control, and disappeared. The road appeared empty. The buildings looked deserted. The writer dropped to his knees, at the mouth of the manhole, and with quivering lips said, “Forgive me Lord, if I appeared ungrateful.” The water continued to trickle into the manhole. As it fell it made a gargling sound.

A fire engine went past. It tore through the night – a savage, blatant red riding hood, shrieking right of way. On board, the firemen donned their clothes. The ladder was almost halfway up. Hope on an improbable night. In the distance, the cough started, the same cough, continuous and weary. The rain poured in gray unforgiving sheets.

An hour or two later a municipality worker would appear. His trousers would be rolled up; in his hand he’d carry a long, thin iron rod with a loop at the end. He’d use this to dig into the manhole, to dislodge any rubbish that was stuck. The water inside would churn like a python emerging from hibernation. But the writer wouldn’t be there to see this. He’d have moved on.

The next day would be declared a holiday. Urchins would rush out to swim in the floods. They would splash alongside red double-decker buses, grinding their way through murky-brown water. They urchins would be joined by bare-chested youths who’d swim on their stomachs, nosedive, and come up for air each time a woman passed. They’d splash the woman, again and again, till her sari clung indistinguishably against her skin.

The rain would pour; gutters would choke; water levels would rise. People would stay indoors and find a million ways to relax. Living rooms would erupt in a blaze of cricket matches and Formula One races. Men would wrench open beer cans. Wives would scramble to rearrange the menus. Neighbors would drop in with bhajiyas and vadas. The older boys would play volleyball, downstairs, in the rain. Like incensed cheetahs, they would leap at the ball and scream pass, pass to each other. The girls would phone their boyfriends and whisper about where to meet and for how long. They’d drop their voices if their parents approached. The kids would eye the remote control and resent their fathers’ presence. Staying away from cartoon network wasn’t funny.

By afternoon the parked cars would disappear underwater. The newspapers would remember to get the picture but not the story. Why bother? It was the same story every year.

By evening a dull gray cast would appear in the sky. It would spread and obliterate heaven from earth, earth from all understanding. The sound of thunder would roll, crash, and reverberate across the city. Sensitive men would feel it in their balls. Less sensitive men would shut their ears. This is how the earth would be tested. How much of black rain can it take, how much of lashing before dawn, before the final cleansing? Streaks of lighting would flash by windows. It would startle babies and make them cry, and light up the faces of forbidden love.

The writer would be back in his Italian-tiled storeroom. He’d be sending out emails, query letters, and synopses. He’d change the wordings this time - more aggressive, like the weather, more culture-specific, like the roads - and he’d chip away in Word, and then hit “send” in Outlook Express, and he’d go “yes, yes, yes,” if it scanned and went through. And in case it didn’t – it bounced back for some reason like “server connection cannot be established” or “sender unknown” – he’d make a note to resend it later. He’d do so without feeling bad, without feeling wronged or misunderstood. For it was only the server that had rejected him and not the recipient and that he could endure easily. For like the weather, that too would change.

(An entry from Urban Voice III: Bombay; Shroff is the author of the critically acclaimed collection of short stories, Breathless in Bombay)

Wednesday, March 12, 2008

Loving and Deliverance in Kamathipura

Rajendar Menen

Tara is short, less than five feet, and petite. She is in an orange saree and blouse that wraps her like an Egyptian mummy. An orange bindi, orange bangles and flowing black curly hair complete the image of a fluorescent dervish. Tara always manages a lazy drawl even when she is in a hurry; she drags her feet when she walks, her chappals scrape the ground collecting the dust with them. It is an uncommon walking style. You can’t miss it; you can even hear it. Her hands are wildly flayed and her posterior rolls in exaggeration. Her gait is expansive and requires a lot of space to accommodate it. There are flowers in her thick black hair. She has sparkling eyes and a large mouth that often finds the time to smile. She keeps giggling and gesticulating; it’s her way. When she is in the vicinity, it gathers you in its turbulence.

Tara was married but her husband died of tuberculosis years ago. She looks after two young children back home in her village in Andhra Pradesh from her earnings as a sex worker in Kamathipura. Her father was a farmer and her mother, frail and blind, is still alive. Tara looks after her, too. There are siblings but they have been separated from one another by the wiles of time and circumstances. Tara has memories of childhood but they don’t flow as easily as her laughter. She doesn’t know where the others are and doesn’t want to talk about the details of growing up, hungry and homeless most of the time, under the scorching southern sun. Maybe, she just doesn’t want to remember the pain.

Tara was gang-raped several times, had repeated abortions and several venereal diseases long before she turned 18, and finally found deliverance in a brothel she was sold to by her family with the help of an agent. It is the destiny of many girls in her village. Middlemen habitually make the rounds. They know about the poverty that will always refuse to cuddle the girl child and the desperation of those tilling the land made barren by the heat and dust, repeated monsoon failures and over-cropping. There are scars on her body, knife wounds and burn marks, but Tara refuses to stop smiling and offers me tea. “If you stay longer, I will cook for you,” she says happily. “That’s if you feel like eating with me.”

Her cubicle is tiny, neatly kept, and lit by a tube light. An old ceiling fan, a trifle unsteady, whirs silently. There is a large cupboard in which she stocks up on cash, jewellery and some clothes: sarees, salwar kameezes and undergarments. She has a bank account with a nationalised bank and a passbook she is proud to show. She has Rs 18,000 in it. There is a chair, a small table with powder, lipstick and some makeup, a mirror, and pails of water under the cot. A thin brown rope stretches from one end of the room to the other with some clothes hanging on it. They are her clothes, washed, wrung and left to dry. She will iron them later, or the pressman on the ground floor will come to the brothel in the morning, collect all the girls’ clothes and send them over in the evening, ironed and sorted out in neat bundles.

The room is small, clean, cool and intimate. It wears a good feeling probably reflecting the aura of the occupant. There are shadows lounging around and geckos are mating on the wall. They grab one another with little gurgles of ecstasy. Tara pours me tea in small stainless steel tumblers and we sit on her large bed and talk. The bed sheet is brown and clean and the pillowcase an ugly green. Her eyes shine like expensive diamonds, maybe that’s why her parents called her tara or star, and she smiles all the time. I am speechless. I want to know what makes her so happy. I want to know how she is filled with so much love and how she can keep giving without being held back by the sorrow that could have turned into crust in her soul.

She lifts her saree and shows me her arms and legs. I can see knife and burn marks. She tells me that even her vagina has been cut up. One nipple has also been sliced off. She says all this in a matter-of-fact voice as though reading out a child’s report card. There’s no drama, no tears, no look-at-my-sorry state cry. “How’s the tea?” she then asks smiling, trying to cheer me up. Tara is in her mid-30s and wants to live in the brothel till the last ebb of life. “I can’t go anywhere now. This is my home. I go to my village whenever I want, send money every month for my children’s education and hope they will do well in life. There is nothing else in my life. I am a prostitute. It’s my job. The lowest job ever. I am like the garbage can. Born to be used. Anyway, forget all this, tell me about you, why are you here, are you married, do you have children, how does your wife look, must be beautiful, what are your children’s names, where are they studying?”

Tara charges Rs 300 for a session, which roughly translates to US $6. A portion is handed to Madam. It is a few times that for the whole night. Sometimes, she is booked for the weekends, too. She keeps the tips and the gifts she gets. “I have customers I have known for years. I have loved, too, but now I don’t love like that; I think I have grown up. That mad, desperate love is over, thank God. My mind doesn’t connect to the body. It’s just a job. Many customers just want to talk and tell me their problems. They pay me because I listen. No one listens to anyone in the big city. No one has time. Everyone has problems. When I hear them, I feel my problems are nothing. I am sure even you have problems. It is the human condition. We are all supposed to have problems and we are meant to solve them. It is karma. Then we will leave this body and take another form. And, maybe, take on some new problems.”

I ask her how she knows all this. “Is there any other reason? Look at my life. Is there any reason for all that has happened? What have I done? I haven’t even had the chance to be a bad person. I was raped as a child. So there must be something I did in a previous life and this is my punishment. When I die my punishment will be over. My next life will be good. I have done nothing wrong this life. We have talked about this in the brothel. All the girls agree. There is no other explanation. You tell me. You are educated. If not for karma, why have we suffered like this? It is destiny, nothing else.” I look for answers. The happy geckos are also not on the wall.

I ask her about God, religion, about her spirituality. Her room has several pictures of deities. Yes, she prays every day. All the girls pray. They have grown up praying to some God and the madam also insists that they pray together. “I am born a Hindu and I pray to all the Gods and Goddesses. I also celebrate all the festivals. Religion doesn’t matter to me. I don’t know too much about all this. I haven’t studied much, but there has to be some power that makes all of us so different. Even the girls in the brothel are so different from one another. How? Isn’t that surprising? I feel happy when I pray. So I pray. I don’t know anything else. Maybe, there is no God. I don’t know. Maybe, He is not kind, maybe He is not just, may be He is. I don’t know all this. How can I know all this? I just pray to what, I feel, is responsible for creating life. Prayer makes me feel strong and secure and happy.”

We have more tea. It is late at night; early morning actually. The rooms are full. Business is good like it always is. The cubicle’s door is shut and there is no noise intruding our space. A long triangular stretch of light seeps in from under the door. Some girls who have not been taken for the night sleep in the hall outside on charpoys laid on the ground. “Why don’t you eat? It is not good to have so much tea. There is some rice and dal. I will heat it. Let’s eat,” she insists. We eat together in clean, separate plates. She gives me a spoon so that I don’t dirty my hands. Tara keeps talking and giggling like a schoolgirl. She is kind and loving and wants to pamper me. “This grain of rice has your name on it. So it is your karma to eat with me today. So eat as much as you can. Who knows what tomorrow will bring? We haven’t seen it.”

Do you miss your kids? “I am a mother. Which mother won’t? I am here for them. I want to live and work till they are settled. Both are boys. So I am not worried. If they are girls anything can happen to them. When I meet my mother I wonder what dreams she had for me? She must have had some dreams, at least. Having become a mother, I understand my mother better. Luckily, she is blind and can’t hear or speak too well. If she knew what I have gone through, her heart will pain.”

She has pictures of the kids framed on the wall. Two little boys, short, thin, tanned, oiled hair and powdered up, in matching blue shirts with white stripes grinning away astride a red motorcycle. It is a studio shot taken in her village. Tara can read and write Telegu and watches a lot of television. She loves Hindi films and sees at least one a day. Sometimes, the girls go to the cinema close by. She likes action and romance and even the scary flicks. “I even saw Sunjay Dutt shooting,” she says all excited. “He had come to Kamathipura.”

What’s her daily routine? She normally wakes up late, but it depends on customer traffic. If the traffic is heavy, the brothel gets a life only at noon. Every girl gets about five customers a day on an average. There are love stories and special customers, and weekend and festival rush. So the numbers vary depending on several factors. Customers can walk in anytime; some even come to the brothel for breakfast. Some stay in the brothel for weeks on end. Customers can stay as long as they want if they pay. But the evenings and nights are always busy.

Madam, a former sex worker in the same brothel, wakes up early every day and looks into the provisions and other details. The girls, who had an early night, help her. Everyone does something or the other; duties are assigned. Some cook, others clean up, and food is also ordered from the several hotels nearby. Customers may want to drink and smoke, too. Biryani, tandoor dishes and kebabs can be ordered. On festive occasions the girls cook the dishes they are most fond of. They don’t entertain customers during their menstrual cycle but hang around and chat. It’s holiday time then. They also eat out with customers. Vendors come to the brothel with fruits, vegetables, flowers, clothes, utensils, jewellery, with almost everything the girls and the brothel needs. So there is no need to shop unless they need the colours, smells and noises of the bazaar.

The brothel is spick and span. There are maids to clean up; normally they are retired sex workers. The two toilets and two bathing areas are kept spotlessly clean and disinfected, water collected in large cauldrons, floors swabbed several times a day, condoms are used always, and great stress is laid on post-coital hygiene. The girls and their customers clean themselves thoroughly with water, lemon and soap. Lemon slices are always used as a natural disinfectant. It is used for everything: washing, cooking and eating. A doctor on the street below is always available. He lives above the clinic. Sometimes the girls fall sick, but Tara has never been unwell. “I have never fallen sick, never even had fever, I don’t know how. I am so lucky. Maybe, it’s my prayers.”

There is order and the brothel runs without murmur. Fights between the girls, though not uncommon, never last. There are some 20 girls in the brothel and Tara is one of the senior ones. The others listen to her without protest. They know why they are here. Tara helps them come to terms with the new circumstances and when the old ones get frayed at the ends. The girls fight over new clothes and lovers, but it’s not serious. What’s a little bit of ego bruising when they have been pulverised by life?

Tara jokes and laughs till the tears trickle from her eyes. I simply can’t fathom her and the others in the brothel. I need a constant yoga practice to still my mind and find fleeting happiness. How do Tara and the others keep laughing at life when it has always mocked them?

The Buddha talked about clinging and non-clinging. If something good happens, you have a reflexive tendency to try to hold on to it, and if something bad happens, you have a tendency to push it away. This clinging response is inevitable if you believe yourself to be the same as or the ‘owner of’ all the desires and fears that arise in you. You become trapped in an endless web of tension and contraction. For most people life is just this.

“He who understands clinging and non-clinging understands all the dharma,” said the Buddha. This is the dharma of happiness. The alternative to the tyranny of clinging is to fully receive the experiences that arise in your life, knowing them to be pleasant when they are pleasant and unpleasant when they are unpleasant. Life dances and you have to dance with it. Each moment is a fresh moment in the dance, and you have to be present for it.

Tara and the girls instinctively radiate the wisdom of the Buddha. I spent years with my yoga practice, yet was unable to scratch out the images of burn-and-knife wounds on Tara’s body, her dazzling eyes, the wisdom of her words and the smile that roped in all the joys of the world in its loving expanse in a badly-lit cubicle of a brothel on the first floor of a building steadily falling apart in one of the most notorious flesh districts in the world.

Life is dancing, and Tara is dancing with it. It’s the last tango in Kamathipura. It’s her last dance of life.

(Excerpted from the forthcoming issue of Urban Voice: Bombay)

Monday, March 10, 2008

Urban Voice III seeks contributions, subscription, advertisements

Urban Voice, a literary magazine that we had launched last year, is coming out with its third issue next month. The focus of this issue would be, simply: Bombay.

The issue would contain new writings (fiction, non-fiction, poetry, cartoons, plays, graphic novel) on Bombay: capturing the city's essence and vibrancy at a time when the city has become one of the few most happening places in the world -- socially, economically, culturally...
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Critical Praise for Urban Voice

Offers an interesting assortment of essays, short fiction, poetry and analyses, as well as a graphic novel and a photo feature

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Provides a platform for the burgeoning mass of writing emanating from the new, changing India

Hindustan Times

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Oman Tribune

Absorbs the Indian literary scene in the midst of a radical transformation by creating a platform for thinkers to capture and go beyond ‘next-in-line’ trends

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